![]() ![]() In Maltatal,, which was one of my very hardest, but my spirit turned and my focus went out slowly. I came back quickly, climbed Emotional Landscapes (V14) To go to the toilet or turn my head when my parents came to visit, and I lost a lot. I was in the hospital for more than one month-couldn’t even stand up In 2001 I got typhoid in India and it was kind of the beginning of the end. Q&A with Klem Loskot When did you stop climbing? I contacted Klem this weekend and asked him about dropping out and re-entering climbing at the top level. Redpointed two routes that check in around 5.15a. In addition to the boulder problems, Loskot has recently Harder, including 12 V14s and a V15, all put up on boulders near his home in Salzburg, Austria. Loskot stopped climbing seriously in the early 2000s, but now, as abruptly as he disappeared, he’s back.ĭuring the same month that Nanuk saw its second ascent, Loskot, now 38, popped up on 8a.nu and reported the first ascents of 38 problems V12 and I am determined to somedayĬlimb all his problems and I was totally gutted by the rumor that Klem quit climbing to surf.” Notoriously radical climbing style, and the types of moves he searches out changed my perspective on what to look for myself. Yesterday I asked Dave Graham what he thought about Loskot and he replied, “Klem is my biggest inspiration as a first ascentionist. Working with his sponsors and dropped out of climbing. Was just getting better and better, traveling the world and penning poetic aphorisms like a happy, athletic Nietzsche, when, quite suddenly, he stopped Therefore I never did anything really hard.” He was more concerned with “cool feelings you want to feel again only more intense.” It seemed like Loskot When asked how he trained he once answered, “I never did that, MALTATAL ICE CLIMBING CONDITIONS LICENSEPeople called Loskot “the climbing philosopher” because he could articulate arcaneĬoncepts in cogent, energetic koans like: “The visions are in your head! The strength lies in your stomach!” or “The license to send: an unbreakableĭespite his obvious world-class level, Loskot never seemed to take the numbers seriously. The latter is a combination of arresting photos, apt metaphors and peculiar English usage that is one the most uniqueĬlimbing books ever written and, in my opinion, one of the best. He was one of the pioneers of deep water soloing and wrote two idiosyncratic books about the peripatetic climbing lifestyle, Der Elfte Grad and Emotional Landscapes. ![]() He traveled a lot, and discovered and developed some of the most famous boulderfields on earth. When he was active, Loskot was always breaking new ground. Unrepeated despite attempts by very strong boulderers. Loskot put up in 1997, was only repeated last month, and Bügeleisen (Loskot called it V13), an angling line of crimps and dynamics, is probably still Nanuk (V14), for example, a weird little traverse that His routes-and particularly his boulder problems-were among the worlds hardest. One thing, this pale, freckled dude with ginger hair that stands up like hay stems, is literally a big guy. Klem Loskot is one of the giants of rock climbing. ![]()
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